Enhancement of Exfoliating Effects through the Novel Cosmetic Ingredient Mandelic acid_Carnitine Ion‐Pairing Complex

• Published in: Skin research and technology Vol. 30; no. 6; pp. e13788 - n/a
• Main Authors: Jeon, Hyungjoon, Park, Nojin, Won, Jong Gu, Shin, Yong Won, Choi, Jiwon, Park, Sang‐Wook, Son, Nam Seo
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England John Wiley & Sons, Inc 01.06.2024; John Wiley and Sons Inc
• Subjects: Acids; Adult; Animals; Carnitine; Carnitine - chemistry; Carnitine - pharmacology; Comedones; Cosmetics - chemistry; Cosmetics - pharmacology; Effectiveness; Evaluation; exfoliating; Exfoliation; Female; Fourier transforms; Humans; Infrared spectroscopy; ion‐pairing complex; Irritation; Light scattering; Male; mandelic acid; Mandelic Acids - chemistry; Mandelic Acids - pharmacology; Middle Aged; Original; Photon correlation spectroscopy; Skin; Skin - chemistry; Skin - drug effects; skin boosting; Spectroscopy, Fourier Transform Infrared; Spectrum analysis; Structural analysis; Swine; carnitine; mandelic acid; skin boosting; ion‐pairing complex; exfoliating
• ISSN: 0909-752X; 1600-0846; 1600-0846
• DOI: 10.1111/srt.13788

Purpose This study aimed to develop a novel exfoliating material with high efficacy and low irritation by synthesizing the Mandelic acid_Carnitine ion pairing complex (M_C complex) and evaluating its exfoliating properties. Additionally, the study assessed the skin improvement effects of the M_C complex through clinical evaluations. Methods The M_C complex was synthesized in a 1:1 molar ratio of Mandelic acid and Carnitine. Structural characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering and Fourier‐transform infrared spectroscopy. Exfoliating efficacy was evaluated on porcine skin, and clinical assessments were conducted on human subjects to measure various skin improvement parameters. Results The formation of the M_C complex was confirmed through particle size analysis, zeta‐potential measurements, and FT‐IR spectroscopy. The M_C complex demonstrated superior exfoliating efficacy compared to Mandelic acid alone, especially at pH 4.5. Clinical evaluations showed significant improvements in blackheads, whiteheads, pore volume, depth, density, count, and affected area, as well as skin texture. No adverse reactions were observed. Conclusion The M_C complex exhibits high exfoliating efficacy and minimal irritation, making it a promising cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health. These findings support its potential as a low‐irritation exfoliating material under mildly acidic conditions, contributing to overall skin health enhancement.