Determining the Onset and Strength of Unforced Wave Breaking in A Numerical Wave Tank

A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra： constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then...

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Bibliographic Details
Published inChina ocean engineering Vol. 28; no. 4; pp. 501 - 509
Main Author 何海伦 宋金宝
Format Journal Article
LanguageEnglish
Published Heidelberg Chinese Ocean Engineering Society 01.08.2014
Subjects
Coastal Sciences
Engineering
Fluid- and Aerodynamics
Marine & Freshwater Sciences
Numerical and Computational Physics
Oceanography
Offshore Engineering
Simulation
强度系数
振幅谱
数值波浪水槽
断裂准则
波浪破碎
皮尔逊
能量损失
验证模型
breaking strength coefficient
fractional energy loss
numerical wave tank
wave breaking
Online AccessGet full text
ISSN0890-5487
2191-8945
DOI10.1007/s13344-014-0041-4

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Summary:A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra： constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient.
Bibliography:wave breaking; numerical wave tank;fractional energy loss; breaking strength coefficient
32-1441/P
HE Hai-lun , SONG Jin-bao （a State Key Laboratory of Satellite Ocean Environment Dynamics, Second Institute of Oceanography, State Oceanic Administration, Hangzhou 310012, China b Key Laboratory of Ocean Circulation and Waves, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Qingdao 266071, China）
A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra： constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient.
ISSN:0890-5487
2191-8945
DOI:10.1007/s13344-014-0041-4