Individual Pattern Making Using Computerized Draping Method for Clothing

• Published in: Textile research journal Vol. 76; no. 8; pp. 646 - 654
• Main Authors: Cho, Youngsook, Komatsu, Takuya, Inui, Shigeru, Takatera, Masayuki, Shimizu, Yoshio, Park, Hyejun
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Thousand Oaks, CA SAGE Publications 01.08.2006; Sage Publications Ltd
• Subjects: Angles (geometry); Computer based modeling; Custom design; cutting; Fabrics; Fittings; Grading; Human body; industry; Mathematical models; Pattern making; Physical properties; Skirts; Studies; textile fibers; Three dimensional imaging; pattern making; tight skirt; clothing; computerized draping
• ISSN: 0040-5175; 1746-7748
• DOI: 10.1177/0040517506066966

The consumer is demanding more variety and personalization in apparel products. Personalization includes creating clothing that not only takes into account of variations in size, but also variations of the body shape itself. The traditional grading method is the current standard sizing system in the apparel industry. It starts with a base size which is then proportionally graded to create a multiple set of sizes. Although it caters for a limited number of sizes, this method does not include variations in body shape. In our research, we have developed a method of individual pattern making by modifying a traditional draping system so that it can be used in conjunction with modern three-dimensional modeling techniques. Individualized pattern making means customized pattern making for individuals. This method uses a five-step draping process. The steps are: (1) defining the surface shape; (2) setting grainlines; (3) fitting the fabric to the surface shape; (4) cutting of the three-dimensional surfaces; and (5) developing the three-dimensionally fitted fabric into a two-dimensional pattern. Our fitting process prevents or controls buckling when the limit angle of a fabric’s ability to conform to a surface is exceeded. We do this entire process using computed geometrical models, rather than physically. Therefore we believe it has the potential to be more efficient and simple than other techniques. When we used this method to make a pattern for a tight skirt, we easily created complex curved lines automatically using this development method. When test subjects compared our skirt with a traditionally designed skirt, approximately 80% of the subjects indicated a preference for our skirt. Although this paper focuses on patterns made for dummies, our future research will focus on fitting to real human body shapes.