'Just hit a button!' - fashion 4.0 designers as cyborgs, experimenting and designing with generative algorithms

This article investigates algorithmic fashion design approaches in order to explore the ongoing digital transformations in fashion designership. The article asks how the automation of design processes and collaboration with machines affect the authorship and professional boundaries of fashion design...

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Published inInternational journal of fashion design, technology and education Vol. 15; no. 2; pp. 211 - 220
Main Authors Särmäkari, Natalia, Vänskä, Annamari
Format Journal Article
LanguageEnglish
Published Abingdon Taylor & Francis 04.05.2022
Taylor & Francis Ltd
Subjects
Algorithmic design
Algorithms
Automation
Cybernetics
cyborg
digital fashion
Digitization
fashion designer
Fashion designers
Fashion goods
Generative artificial intelligence
Human-computer interaction
Professional standards
professionalism
Online AccessGet full text
ISSN1754-3266
1754-3274
1754-3274
DOI10.1080/17543266.2021.1991005

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Abstract This article investigates algorithmic fashion design approaches in order to explore the ongoing digital transformations in fashion designership. The article asks how the automation of design processes and collaboration with machines affect the authorship and professional boundaries of fashion designers. The article analyses two case studies, the Finnish designer Matti Liimatainen and the Dutch 'digital-only' fashion house The Fabricant, to demonstrate how different ways of combining fashion designers' expertise, creativity and tacit knowledge with programming and/or computer-generated content alter the design process. The article also uses Donna Haraway's metaphor of the 'cyborg' (1985) to explain how digitalisation of the process intertwines designers with digital infrastructures. Two approaches to algorithmic fashion design are identified: generative clothing development and AI-aided digital fashion sketching. It is argued that both approaches involve the characteristics of computerisation/hominisation, re-professionalisation and 'cyborg designer 4.0'.
AbstractList This article investigates algorithmic fashion design approaches in order to explore the ongoing digital transformations in fashion designership. The article asks how the automation of design processes and collaboration with machines affect the authorship and professional boundaries of fashion designers. The article analyses two case studies, the Finnish designer Matti Liimatainen and the Dutch ‘digital-only’ fashion house The Fabricant, to demonstrate how different ways of combining fashion designers’ expertise, creativity and tacit knowledge with programming and/or computer-generated content alter the design process. The article also uses Donna Haraway's metaphor of the ‘cyborg’ (1985) to explain how digitalisation of the process intertwines designers with digital infrastructures. Two approaches to algorithmic fashion design are identified: generative clothing development and AI-aided digital fashion sketching. It is argued that both approaches involve the characteristics of computerisation/hominisation, re-professionalisation and ‘cyborg designer 4.0’.
Author Särmäkari, Natalia
Vänskä, Annamari
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SubjectTerms Algorithmic design
Algorithms
Automation
Cybernetics
cyborg
digital fashion
Digitization
fashion designer
Fashion designers
Fashion goods
Generative artificial intelligence
Human-computer interaction
Professional standards
professionalism
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Title 'Just hit a button!' - fashion 4.0 designers as cyborgs, experimenting and designing with generative algorithms
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