晚清戲曲團花圖案的使用與特殊性
本文從中華服飾文化中心的晚清藏品「藍緞地人物團花刺繡大襟褂」出發，透過藏品實物分析法，釐清大襟褂上十個團花圖案的構圖表現方式與戲曲故事題材，大襟褂使用了《牡丹亭》〈驚夢〉、《珍珠塔》〈贈塔〉和《連環計》〈擲戟〉等多個男女愛情故事的散齣，並透過組合、排列這些不同的戲曲散齣，創造了一個屬於使用者自己的故事，講述了女性從自由戀愛到結婚生子、孝順公婆的內容。接着以「藍緞地人物團花刺繡大襟褂」的團花題材為基礎，探討這些戲曲題材在清代刊本插圖、瓷器和年畫上的圖案表現方式與功能性，透過互文性的分析來理解這些媒材之間的關係與異同，以及流行戲曲文化對於這些不同媒材上的圖案表現所造成影響與重要性，並凸顯晚清戲曲團...
Saved in:
| Published in | 民俗曲藝 no. 216; pp. 109 - 139 |
|---|---|
| Main Author | |
| Format | Journal Article |
| Language | Chinese |
| Published |
台灣
財團法人施合鄭民俗文化基金會
01.06.2022
|
| Subjects | |
| Online Access | Get full text |
| ISSN | 1025-1383 |
Cover
| Abstract | 本文從中華服飾文化中心的晚清藏品「藍緞地人物團花刺繡大襟褂」出發，透過藏品實物分析法，釐清大襟褂上十個團花圖案的構圖表現方式與戲曲故事題材，大襟褂使用了《牡丹亭》〈驚夢〉、《珍珠塔》〈贈塔〉和《連環計》〈擲戟〉等多個男女愛情故事的散齣，並透過組合、排列這些不同的戲曲散齣，創造了一個屬於使用者自己的故事，講述了女性從自由戀愛到結婚生子、孝順公婆的內容。接着以「藍緞地人物團花刺繡大襟褂」的團花題材為基礎，探討這些戲曲題材在清代刊本插圖、瓷器和年畫上的圖案表現方式與功能性，透過互文性的分析來理解這些媒材之間的關係與異同，以及流行戲曲文化對於這些不同媒材上的圖案表現所造成影響與重要性，並凸顯晚清戲曲團花如何作為一個可重組的借代性圖案元素，在女性服裝上乘載文化價值和情感的特殊性。 |
|---|---|
| AbstractList | 本文從中華服飾文化中心的晚清藏品「藍緞地人物團花刺繡大襟褂」出發，透過藏品實物分析法，釐清大襟褂上十個團花圖案的構圖表現方式與戲曲故事題材，大襟褂使用了《牡丹亭》〈驚夢〉、《珍珠塔》〈贈塔〉和《連環計》〈擲戟〉等多個男女愛情故事的散齣，並透過組合、排列這些不同的戲曲散齣，創造了一個屬於使用者自己的故事，講述了女性從自由戀愛到結婚生子、孝順公婆的內容。接着以「藍緞地人物團花刺繡大襟褂」的團花題材為基礎，探討這些戲曲題材在清代刊本插圖、瓷器和年畫上的圖案表現方式與功能性，透過互文性的分析來理解這些媒材之間的關係與異同，以及流行戲曲文化對於這些不同媒材上的圖案表現所造成影響與重要性，並凸顯晚清戲曲團花如何作為一個可重組的借代性圖案元素，在女性服裝上乘載文化價值和情感的特殊性。 The purpose of this article is to analyze a piece of garment, “Blue Satin Jacket with Embroidered Roundels of Theatrical Figures,” held in the collection of Chinese Textiles and Clothing Culture Center. I first describe the pictorial composition of the roundels, then demonstrate how each of the ten roundels on the garment depicts a theatrical scene. The jacket features the following scenes “A Surprising Dream” from The Peony Pavilion, “Endowing the Tower” from The Pearl Tower, “Tossing a Spear” from Series of Stratagems, and other highlights from love stories in Chinese opera. Through the arrangement and combination of different scenes from Chinese opera, the wearer created a unique narrative that details the story of a woman falling in love of her own free will, marrying and having children, and taking care of her parents-in-law. I use the narrative roundels on the jacket as a basis to discuss how these Chinese opera figures are applied and depicted in Qing illustrations, ceramics, and New Year woodblock pri |
| Author | 郭昭吟(Kuo Chao-yin) |
| Author_xml | – sequence: 1 fullname: 郭昭吟(Kuo Chao-yin) |
| BookMark | eNrjYmDJy89LZWHgNDQwMtU1NLYw5mDgLS7OTDIwMDIyNQcCTgbdZzNnPdvR-qxj07PZm57OmfGia-PTOdOeLex4Pqvlyd79z6eseNHR_rxz57N1Xc8alvMwsKYl5hSn8kJpboZgN9cQZw9dH393T2dHH91ECzMjXQtjM9Nkk9RksyRDi6TElFQD89S0FLM0w1QDi-QUE_MUyyRDS5NkY8vktFSTVIs0QxODxNS0RAvzxEQjo6TkZGNuBhmIqRmV5alJ8RmVRamJKfEGBmZGxkYmRkBpD4h0YmZRZklmfFZ-aVEe0DXxIG-CfBlvBPSfgRmEMjcwNTAwsETlGIKwsaUxABqvX-Q |
| ContentType | Journal Article |
| DBID | 188 9RA |
| DatabaseName | 华艺数位台湾学术文献数据库 HyRead台灣全文資料庫 |
| DatabaseTitleList | |
| DeliveryMethod | fulltext_linktorsrc |
| Discipline | Visual Arts |
| DocumentTitleAlternate | Application and Uniqueness: Embroidered Roundels with Theatrical Figures in Late Qing Garments |
| DocumentTitle_FL | Application and Uniqueness: Embroidered Roundels with Theatrical Figures in Late Qing Garments |
| EndPage | 139 |
| ExternalDocumentID | 00623242 10251383_202206_202207050009_202207050009_109_139 |
| GroupedDBID | 188 3V. 8G5 A3D A3F ABUWG AFKRA ALMA_UNASSIGNED_HOLDINGS AVQMV AZQEC BENPR BPHCQ BVBZV CCPQU DJMCT DWQXO GNUQQ GUQSH KNOGT M2O P2P PQQKQ PROAC 9RA AJPXE PHGZM PHGZT PMKZF |
| ID | FETCH-LOGICAL-a862-8365c4ec6b18bade07efd6f1e08cd47d9b194c39cfe4e8f140aefa87aa22bcc3 |
| ISSN | 1025-1383 |
| IngestDate | Thu Jul 31 12:28:00 EDT 2025 Tue Oct 01 22:52:06 EDT 2024 |
| IsPeerReviewed | false |
| IsScholarly | true |
| Issue | 216 |
| Keywords | 戲曲團花 戲曲圖案 late Qing women's clothing Chinese opera figures Chinese opera roundels 晚清女性服裝 |
| Language | Chinese |
| LinkModel | OpenURL |
| MergedId | FETCHMERGED-LOGICAL-a862-8365c4ec6b18bade07efd6f1e08cd47d9b194c39cfe4e8f140aefa87aa22bcc3 |
| PageCount | 31 |
| ParticipantIDs | hyweb_hyread_00623242 airiti_journals_10251383_202206_202207050009_202207050009_109_139 |
| PublicationCentury | 2000 |
| PublicationDate | 20220601 202206 |
| PublicationDateYYYYMMDD | 2022-06-01 |
| PublicationDate_xml | – month: 06 year: 2022 text: 20220601 day: 01 |
| PublicationDecade | 2020 |
| PublicationPlace | 台灣 |
| PublicationPlace_xml | – name: 台灣 |
| PublicationTitle | 民俗曲藝 |
| PublicationTitle_FL | Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore |
| PublicationYear | 2022 |
| Publisher | 財團法人施合鄭民俗文化基金會 |
| Publisher_xml | – name: 財團法人施合鄭民俗文化基金會 |
| SSID | ssib002257777 ssj0000884187 ssib012597636 ssib011898715 ssib017261660 ssib007834739 ssib039932228 ssib055390297 |
| Score | 2.3102891 |
| Snippet | 本文從中華服飾文化中心的晚清藏品「藍緞地人物團花刺繡大襟褂」出發，透過藏品實物分析法，釐清大襟褂上十個團花圖案的構圖表現方式與戲曲故事題材，大襟褂使用了《牡丹亭》〈... The purpose of this article is to analyze a piece of garment, “Blue Satin Jacket with Embroidered Roundels of Theatrical Figures,” held in the collection of... |
| SourceID | hyweb airiti |
| SourceType | Publisher |
| StartPage | 109 |
| SubjectTerms | Chinese opera figures Chinese opera roundels late Qing women’s clothing THCI TSSCI 戲曲圖案 戲曲團花 晚清女性服裝 |
| Title | 晚清戲曲團花圖案的使用與特殊性 |
| URI | https://www.airitilibrary.com/Article/Detail/10251383-202206-202207050009-202207050009-109-139 http://www.hyread.com.tw/hypage.cgi?HYPAGE=search/search_detail_new.hpg&dtd_id=3&sysid=00623242 |
| hasFullText | 1 |
| inHoldings | 1 |
| isFullTextHit | |
| isPrint | |
| journalDatabaseRights | – providerCode: PRVPQU databaseName: East & South Asia Database (ProQuest) issn: 1025-1383 databaseCode: BVBZV dateStart: 20120301 customDbUrl: isFulltext: true dateEnd: 99991231 titleUrlDefault: https://search.proquest.com/eastsouthasia omitProxy: false ssIdentifier: ssj0000884187 providerName: ProQuest – providerCode: PRVPQU databaseName: ProQuest Central issn: 1025-1383 databaseCode: BENPR dateStart: 20120301 customDbUrl: http://www.proquest.com/pqcentral?accountid=15518 isFulltext: true dateEnd: 99991231 titleUrlDefault: https://www.proquest.com/central omitProxy: true ssIdentifier: ssj0000884187 providerName: ProQuest |
| link | http://utb.summon.serialssolutions.com/2.0.0/link/0/eLvHCXMwnV07bxQxELZCaKBAPIIIL6XA5aLz2Wt7yt1kTxGICEFA6U778CppEonkiqSiABFSIwQhBVRQIZEKCsSfIZv8DGa8m71FChIg7e3Zc37MeHz2N5btYexWXxSl0K4IUrJ0lCghyFIlglzqzIT9UqVAh5PvLej5R-rOUrg0MfG-s2tptJHdzrdOPFfyP1pFGuqVTsn-g2bbQpGAYdQvvlHD-P4rHfNEcwAOEQViy21IAWt53Pc_xT4QcpjlYHmCCSIei2OKpjSRoPSJoUKs4oni8RyPB56ieFTnwscQxQKPwedKqCiqq8cj0wW4npMeB-GLGnAwHU4sRaHdY8wT4FbyaM4nsT6ArGHuAeLeu6M12gywFmz6tYvu8gTqu91G5TsUFY0VRKIjLfIhOYSej4geqkSTeHUlJDaQzHX9JzCtvdght3VjhcQXlQNEp8Sa6qo95DQDO7ntFbIh1YO16EFn3hcSxnNiu1ORzpgS5jzFTuHIOMlOx8nC_QcdABSa7oWK5LbEjO9ZResN0CJtR0xEkwj_ZAsAET1qoccGKqHFZknOx8NQAnkXa1cNcU5Qwnt9bAVC6JSu0AVYaF4tb9YbeY_x0eJ5dq4xbGaiupdeYBNbyxfZ2ccr66Oaun6JBdXb3err82p7v3q3f7D35mjny8He6-rD9uHus5_ffxy--nS0_eLw5bfq80719OMUezhIFmfng8ZdR5CiWRxYqcNcuVxnwmZp4XrGlYUuheuRfyxTQCZA5RLy0ilnSzTsU1em1qRpv5_lubzMJlfXVt0VNuNCkZoQkbB0pXLSpAWAAuEQSBUml2qaRbXEw-a_uD6k1qDGGFIX7On6y_S8t4_fI4I-EqbZlG-s4fImGmfF8FjPV_9Av8bOjHv3dTa58WTkbiAc3chuNn3iFyDiXqk |
| linkProvider | ProQuest |
| openUrl | ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_enc=info%3Aofi%2Fenc%3AUTF-8&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fsummon.serialssolutions.com&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.atitle=%E6%99%9A%E6%B8%85%E6%88%B2%E6%9B%B2%E5%9C%98%E8%8A%B1%E5%9C%96%E6%A1%88%E7%9A%84%E4%BD%BF%E7%94%A8%E8%88%87%E7%89%B9%E6%AE%8A%E6%80%A7&rft.jtitle=%E6%B0%91%E4%BF%97%E6%9B%B2%E8%97%9D&rft.au=%E9%83%AD%E6%98%AD%E5%90%9F%28Kuo+Chao-yin%29&rft.date=2022-06-01&rft.pub=%E8%B2%A1%E5%9C%98%E6%B3%95%E4%BA%BA%E6%96%BD%E5%90%88%E9%84%AD%E6%B0%91%E4%BF%97%E6%96%87%E5%8C%96%E5%9F%BA%E9%87%91%E6%9C%83&rft.issn=1025-1383&rft.spage=109&rft.epage=139&rft.externalDocID=00623242 |
| thumbnail_m | http://utb.summon.serialssolutions.com/2.0.0/image/custom?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.airitilibrary.com%2Fjnltitledo%2F10251383-c.jpg |